Slovenia, the green heart of Europe with a Viennese air and a Balkan spirit

Between the Julian Alps and the former Austro-Hungarian empire lies Slovenia.

Oliver Thansan
Oliver Thansan
13 June 2023 Tuesday 10:34
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Slovenia, the green heart of Europe with a Viennese air and a Balkan spirit

Between the Julian Alps and the former Austro-Hungarian empire lies Slovenia. A crossroads of civilizations, this small corner of Europe was reborn in June 1991 and was the eldest of the countries illuminated in the last throes of the former Yugoslavia that flooded the Balkans with blood. It won its independence almost without making a sound, after a ten-day war against the former Yugoslav federation where the casualties were counted on the fingers of one hand.

The political discretion of the country, today a full member of the European Union, contrasts with the explosion of light and beauty that overwhelms the visitor. Slovenia is a natural paradise, a privileged destination for hikers and cyclists eager for risk-free adventures.

Slovenian coquetry has its main exponent in Ljubljana, a mixture of style, charm and bohemianism, where the bustle of cafes coexists with magnificent buildings. And it is that the majestic modernity of the city hides a tragic secret. In 1895 an earthquake destroyed a large part of its center. The misfortune coincided with the vision of the architect Jože Plečnik that he was able to carry out without limits the reconstruction project that he had learned from the masters of Viennese architecture.

Plečnik, who is sometimes compared to Gaudí, dedicated his life to Ljubljana with such intensity and asceticism that today it is impossible to disassociate the streets and squares from the artist who conceived them. The secluded historic center is a catalog of his work present in buildings such as the National Library, the columns of the public market, the trees that border the Ljubljanica River or the popular Triple Bridge.

Ideal for exploring on foot or by bicycle, the heart of the city is presided over by a sculpture of the poet and national hero France Prešeren who, from his pedestal, circumspectly observes the wandering of musicians, street artists and tourists who, at sunset, are entranced by the colorful pink facade of the church of the Annunciation. Nearby is the Congress Square, a jewel and a UNESCO world heritage site, and around the Zvezda Park are the Ursuline Church, the headquarters of the Slovenian Philharmonic and the University's rectory.

Among so much elegance, the simplicity of the Fish Market bridge and the Gerber staircase that connects with the pedestrian walkway parallel to the river are surprising. Dozens of restaurants and terraces are concentrated here, a meeting point to have a drink next to the river and immerse yourself in the youthful atmosphere that pervades the Slovenian capital.

A little further on is the Butchers' Bridge, although the tradition of setting closed padlocks on its wire railings has made it a symbol of eternal love and is popularly known as the Padlock Bridge. Full of symbolism, the Dragon Bridge is an obligatory stop to immortalize the passage through Ljubljana and in passing to remember that it was the first to unite the two banks that divide the city

From its vantage point, Ljubljana Castle watches over the city. This old penitentiary converted into a center that hosts all kinds of cultural events, is accessed on foot or by funicular and it is highly recommended to get lost among its innumerable trails when descending. A stronghold against invaders and a refuge for those evicted from the earthquake, the watchtower is the ideal point to obtain the best panoramic views of the city. The 15th-century St. George's Chapel adorned with coats of arms of Slovenian nobles contrasts with the medieval dungeon dug into the ground where inmates literally rotted.

Slovenia is nature, a mosaic of green, mountains and lakes that surprises with its grandeur. Bled, with its wonderful lake that surrounds an island and the castle on the rocks, is the classic postcard of Slovenian tourism. But it is also a good point from which to explore beauties such as the Vintgar Gorge, a nearly two-kilometre path along the Radovna River dotted with wells, waterfalls and a final waterfall a dozen meters high.

In the Triglav natural park in the foothills of the Julian Alps, is the highest peak in the country, and at certain times you can see the spectacle of sunlight filtering through its hollows. The Kozjak or Savica waterfalls near Lake Savica, less crowded and larger than Bled, form a triad capable of enrapturing the senses.

Postojna cave is amazing. Exaggerated in its magnificence and grandeur, there are 24 kilometers of galleries where stalagmites and stalactites coexist in an orgy of lights, colors and sounds. The first part is covered in an electric train and the rest between paths dug between dizzying mountains part of a unique natural spectacle.

With only 45 kilometers of coastline, Slovenia's access to the sea could be an anecdote. But instead, it is a reflection of the decadent romanticism fruit of the five centuries of domination of the kingdom of Venice. The oval square of Piran is one of the pearls of a tiny coast, but with secluded beaches.