Fantasy landscapes where only a dragon is missing, active volcanoes with an unpronounceable name, geysers, fjords, glaciers and steaming hot springs in which to take refuge from the arctic air. They are the weapons of seduction of Iceland, populated by the descendants of the Vikings who discovered it more than a millennium ago.
A unique world of quiet fishing villages, impressive mountains, fertile valleys and reserved but friendly people who enjoy the joy and music that reigns in the bars of Reykjavik, the capital. To find out more about this peculiar island, we spoke with Raúl Moreno, a Civitatis guide in Iceland.
Tell us about your trajectory. How did you become a tour guide in Iceland?
By chance. I practiced climbing and mountaineering with a friend from my hometown, Albacete, and thanks to him I learned the trade as a guide in the summer of 2007, in Greenland. The following year I arrived in Iceland, and since then I have led groups there. I lived in Reykjavik for a while, and now I work from June or July to October, and a few weeks in winter. Before that I studied photography and worked as a photographer for local newspapers. For more than ten years I have been doing reports for national and international media, something compatible with being a guide. And I study Social and Cultural Anthropology.
What makes Iceland special? How many days does it take to meet her?
It is unique because you have the impression of traveling in the geological time of the planet. I am motivated by their spectacular nature, which makes you feel insignificant and powerful at the same time; its repairing energy, with which you connect as soon as you step on it; her unique light, and the remains of her pagan culture, present in everyday life. For a trip I recommend at least eight days, although the ideal is fifteen. There is much to see and do.
The country's greatest attraction is nature: volcanoes, waterfalls, glaciers... What should we not miss? What kind of active tourism do you recommend?
The impressive Vatnajökull glacier and the emblematic Snaefellsjökull, the volcano that inspired Jules Verne's novel Journey to the Center of the Earth, are essential. And the Landmannalaugar region, also known as "the mountains of colors". I recommend a hike through a glacier, or horseback riding; and for those who seek strong emotions, snorkel in the Silfra fissure. Finishing the Laugavegur trail, one of the most beautiful in Europe, takes between four and six days. The famous Ring Road (a ring road with a length of 1,322 kilometers) attracts cyclists from all over the world. In Iceland there are endless routes for all levels. It is a matter of consulting a good guide, or resorting to a specialized agency, to find out which route best suits you. I recommend doing the excursions with a professional guide who knows the terrain and the climate well.
Is it easy to move around the island? Is it dangerous to drive?
Is not difficult. It is pleasant to drive along its winding and solitary roads, among unimaginable natural scenes. If we go around the island on its N1 road (the Ring Road), it is worth it with a car. To visit the interior through some of the tracks called F, we must rent a 4x4, mandatory on these tracks. It is a good idea to check the weather forecast and the state of the roads on a daily basis, especially in winter. This close to the Arctic Circle, the weather can suddenly turn rough in any season. Here it is not pleasant to be in the middle of a gale or a snowstorm.
What is the best time of year to see the Northern Lights in Iceland?
To see the northern lights in their maximum splendor we need a sky in complete darkness, so the best dates are from September to April. Winter is dark and cold, but there is no shortage of things to do, such as visiting the impressive ice caves formed in the glaciers.
Is Reykjavik a lively city? What is the best you have?
It is, especially on summer weekends, when the locals invade the center looking for fun. There is a rich offer of cultural and musical activities in the open air. At night, the beautiful venues on Laugavegur street have a great atmosphere, and concerts are held in some bars. In my opinion, the best thing is that it is a different city from the ones we are used to. The center is the most characteristic area, with its colorful fairytale corners. And I love how nature coexists with the city and its inhabitants.
Is there an essential cultural visit?
My favorites are the National Museum of Iceland, to explore its historical-artistic heritage; the Lava Center Museum in Hvolsvöllur, to understand the geology of the island in an interactive way; and the Reykjavík Art Museum, which exhibits works by contemporary artists from the country.
Is traveling to Iceland expensive for the Spanish pocket?
Yes it is expensive. In order not to spend more, it is convenient to plan the trip well or put yourself in the hands of serious agencies that do it for us. It is important to book accommodation and vehicles as soon as possible, it will be cheaper.
How is it eaten, are there good restaurants? Have you tried the famous hákarl (fermented shark), or is it only for the brave? And some peculiar drink?
You can eat quite well, the variety of local products is scarce, but of very good quality. Cod, salmon, arctic char, lamb, and lobster bisque are some of the best dishes. In recent years, haute cuisine establishments have burst into force, especially in the capital. There are greenhouses where they grow organic vegetables and fruits thanks to geothermal energy and low energy costs. And hákarl smells even worse than it tastes. Remember ammonia. But the experience is worth living. It is typical to eat it with a highly alcoholic drink from the country, the brennivín, known as “the black death”.
What typical Icelandic product should we take as a souvenir?
One of their beautiful and warm sweaters, the lopapeysa, made with wool from the country. For lunch I would take dried cod, or flake salt, produced in the northwestern fjords thanks to geothermal energy.
Where would you look for accommodation?
In Reykjavik I would not go far from the center, especially if you do not have a car. There are all kinds of accommodation: hostels, guest houses, hotels… En route I would look for farms converted into guest houses, or small guesthouses, to enjoy the silence and the surroundings even more.
Shall we close with some practical advice? Tips, public transport…
In summer there are many hours of light. I recommend leaving as early as possible to visit the planned places and giving us time to discover others off the main route. In winter everything changes, because the sun rises early in the morning, and sets very soon. We must wear comfortable and waterproof clothing and shoes, and warm clothing: even in summer, temperatures can drop suddenly. Also a swimsuit, due to the numerous thermal pools. It is mandatory to respect the fragile Icelandic nature, it takes many years to regenerate it. Lastly, I would tell all travelers to keep their minds' eyes wide open: you might come across an elf at the least expected place and time.
